motherjones | Historian Abigail Carroll, author of the book Three Squares: The Invention of the American Meal,
explained to me that the the thrice-daily eating schedule goes back at
least as far as the Middle Ages in Europe. When European settlers got to
America, they also imported their meal habits: a light meal—maybe cold
mush and radishes—in the morning, a heavier, cooked one midday, and a
third meal similar to the first one later in the day. They observed that
the eating schedule of the native tribes was less rigid—the volume and
timing of their eating varied with the seasons.
Sometimes, when food was
scarce, they fasted. The Europeans took this as "evidence that natives
were uncivilized," Carroll explained to me in an email. "Civilized
people ate properly and boundaried their eating,
thus differentiating themselves from the animal kingdom, where grazing
is the norm." (So fascinated were Europeans with tribes' eating
patterns, notes Carroll, that they actually watched Native Americans eat
"as a form of entertainment.")
The three daily meals that the settlers brought evolved with
Americans' lifestyles. As people became more prosperous, they added meat
to breakfast and dinner. After the Industrial Revolution, when people
began to work away from home, the midday meal became a more casual
affair, and the cooked meal shifted to the end of the day, when workers
came home. The one thing that did not change was the overall amount of
food that people ate—despite the fact that they had largely abandoned
the active lifestyles of the farm in favor of sedentary ones in cities
and suburbs. "People were still eating these giant country breakfasts,"
says Carroll. Soon, doctors reported that more of their patients were
suffering from indigestion.
In an effort to rein in caloric intake, nutritionists began advising
people to eat a lighter breakfast—and marketers pounced on the
opportunity. In 1897, brothers Will Keith Kellogg and John Harvey
Kellogg introduced corn flakes as healthy alternative to heavy
breakfasts. (The pair had an ulterior motive: They wanted to spread the
gospel of the vegetarian diet because it was part of their Seventh Day
Adventist faith.)
Corn flakes took off, and in the years that followed, breakfast
became known as a meal for health food. Fruit-grower associations seized
the opportunity to market juices, which, the ad campaigns announced,
were chock full of a newly discovered thing called vitamins. The makers
of breakfast foods warned of the dangers of skipping "the most important
meal of the day."
That line of reasoning persists today—check out Kellogg's modern-day treatise
on the health benefits of breakfast. But there's just one problem:
Science shows that when it comes to maintaining your metabolism—the
bodily system that helps us turn food into energy and, when out of
whack, can lead to diabetes and other disorders—it doesn't make a whit
of difference whether you eat breakfast or not.
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