WaPo |
Gluten,
one of the most popular proteins on this planet, is also increasingly
one of the most hated. Here in the United States, the gluten-free
movement, which has been driven not only by an actual need among celiacs
to avoid the food but also a widespread belief that letting bread,
beer, pasta, and all other foods with gluten go means living healthier
for almost anyone, is so pervasive that it might as well be a fact of
American life. Some 20 million in this country claim that eating it
causes them distress, according to The New Yorker. Another 100 million people, meanwhile, say that they are actively working to eliminate gluten from their diets.
And
yet, amid the rise of the villainization of gluten, is a growing sense
that something about the movement seems a bit off.
The New Yorker's
Michael Specter's recent deep dive into the fad brought to surface a
number of legitimate gripes, including the lack of scientific evidence
supporting the belief that going gluten-free is better for one's health.
"How
could gluten, present in a staple food that has sustained humanity for
thousands of years, have suddenly become so threatening?" Specter asks.
Wheat,
which contains gluten, is one of the cheapest foods known to man. It's
also one of the most essential: it currently provides an estimated
one-fifth of the calories people around the globe consume. Going
gluten-free might make one feel better, but it's a luxury not everyone
can afford.
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